How a fresh leaf becomes oolong.一片鮮葉,怎麼變成烏龍。
Seven stages, fourteen machines, about two days of working with the weather. Walk through each machine, play with it, and see what it does to the leaf.七個階段、十四台機器、大約兩天與天氣合作的功夫。一台一台看過去,動手試試,看看它對葉子做了什麼。
Teaching a class? Open any machine and press W for Walkthrough.要上課嗎?打開任何一台機器,按 W 進入導覽模式。
The leaf's path葉子的路線
Every machine, in the order the leaf meets it每一台機器,按葉子經過的順序
Follow a tea跟著一種茶走
Same leaf, different routes同樣的葉子,不同的路線
Four ideas behind every step看懂每一步的四個概念
Oxidation is an enzyme reaction「發酵」其實是酵素氧化
Tea “fermentation” isn't microbial. When leaf cells are damaged, the enzyme polyphenol oxidase meets catechins and oxygen and turns them into theaflavins (gold) and thearubigins (red-brown). That's the same browning you see on a cut apple.茶葉的「發酵」不是微生物作用。葉細胞受損後,多酚氧化酶與兒茶素、氧氣接觸,生成茶黃素(金黃)和茶紅素(紅褐),和切開的蘋果變褐是同一回事。
Water is the clock水分就是時鐘
Fresh leaf is about 75% water and finished tea under 5%. Every stage removes some at a controlled rate: too fast and the leaf dies green, too slow and it stews.鮮葉含水約 75%,成茶低於 5%。每個階段都以受控的速度去掉一部分水:太快葉片會「死菁」,太慢則會悶壞。
Heat is the off switch高溫是關閉開關
Above about 70–80 °C in the leaf, the enzymes denature. The kill-green drum picks the moment, so it decides how oxidised the tea will be.葉溫超過約 70–80 °C,酵素就變性失活。殺菁機決定在哪一刻關掉開關,也就決定了茶的發酵程度。
Warm leaf is plastic溫熱的葉片可塑
At 60–65 °C, cell walls and pectin soften, so a leaf can be folded without snapping and holds the shape once it cools and dries. Ball rolling relies on this, over and over.在 60–65 °C 時,細胞壁和果膠變軟,葉片可以折疊而不斷,冷卻乾燥後就保持形狀。團揉就是反覆利用這一點。
Lose water: the right amount, at the right speed.失水:失去適量的水分,用適當的速度。
What physically happens物理上發生了什麼
As the leaf loses water its cells loosen and leak, so the browning enzyme starts to reach the catechins it was kept apart from. Grassy smells begin to fade. How fast this happens matters as much as how far it goes.葉片失水後細胞變鬆、滲漏,使葉片變褐的酵素開始接觸原本被隔開的兒茶素,青草味也開始散去。失水的速度和失水的多少一樣重要。
The levers可以調整的
Sun or no sun, room temperature, humidity, airflow, how thickly the leaf is spread, and for how long.要不要日曬、室溫、濕度、風量、攤葉厚薄,以及時間長短。
The constraints限制條件
The weather. A strong sun pushes water out fast. On a rainy, humid day the leaf barely dries, so makers skip the sun and go straight indoors, using warm air, blowers or air-con to make up the difference.天氣。陽光強時失水很快;下雨潮濕時葉子幾乎不乾,製茶師只好跳過日曬直接進室內,用熱風、送風機或空調來彌補。
Try it: leaf water through a withering day試試看:萎凋過程中的葉片含水
Illustrative model, not measured data. Real numbers depend on the leaf, the farm and the day.示意模型,並非實測數據。實際數值隨茶菁、茶廠與當天天氣而變。
Ways makers do it製茶師的做法
Twist the leaf and break its cells so the juice coats the surface.揉捲葉片、使細胞破裂,讓茶汁附著在葉表。
What physically happens物理上發生了什麼
Pressure and friction split the cell walls while the leaf is still warm and soft. The leaf curls along its midrib into a strip.趁葉片溫熱柔軟時施加壓力與摩擦,使細胞壁破裂,葉片沿著主脈捲成條狀。
The levers可以調整的
How hard and how long to press (usually light, then heavy, then light), and how warm the leaf still is.壓力多大、揉多久(通常輕—重—輕),以及葉子還有多溫熱。
The constraints限制條件
The tea being made. Oolong needs an even twist without tearing, so it goes under a bowl-shaped presser. Black tea wants the leaf broken thoroughly, so it gets a heavier flat lid.要做的茶類。烏龍要捲得均勻又不能揉破,所以用碗狀壓蓋;紅茶要把葉子充分揉破,所以用壓力較重的平面壓蓋。
Ways makers do it製茶師的做法
Fold each leaf into a tight pearl, a little more every round.把每片葉子揉成緊結的顆粒,一輪比一輪更緊。
What physically happens物理上發生了什麼
Warm leaf (about 60–65 °C) is soft and holds a new fold once it cools. Each round of squeezing, loosening and re-warming tightens the shape a little more.溫熱的葉片(約 60–65 °C)柔軟,冷卻後會保持新的摺痕。每一輪擠壓、解塊、再加溫,都讓外形更緊一點。
The levers可以調整的
Cloth tension, pressure, leaf temperature, the number of rounds, and when to slip a part-dry in between.布巾束緊的程度、壓力、葉溫、輪數,以及何時穿插烘乾。
The constraints限制條件
Labour and scale. Cloth balls tended round after round take many hours, so larger factories often use the tofu press to do much of the squeezing in a few big presses. Some say it costs a little flavour.人力與規模。布球一輪一輪團揉非常耗時,所以較大的茶廠常用壓茶機(豆腐機)以幾次大力擠壓完成大部分工作,也有人認為會犧牲一些風味。
Ways makers do it製茶師的做法
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看The shine fades: the leaf turns dull, not glossy.葉面失去光澤,由亮轉暗。
- Feel摸Soft and limp: hold it by the stem and it droops.葉質柔軟,捏住葉柄會下垂。
- Smell聞The sharp grassy smell starts to soften.強烈的青草味開始變淡。
Withering cloths & racks萎凋布與萎凋架
日光萎凋 · 室內萎凋架 · 水篩 “the sun and the shelf”「曬菁與涼菁」
Let the leaf lose water slowly so its cells loosen and its chemistry wakes up.讓葉片緩慢失水,細胞變鬆、化學反應開始啟動。
- Sun withering日光萎凋
- 10–30 min, ~2–5% water loss10–30 分鐘,失水約 2–5%
- Indoor withering室內萎凋
- 6–12 h at 20–25 °C, 60–75% RH6–12 小時,20–25 °C,相對濕度 60–75%
- Tray load每篩攤葉量
- ~0.5–1 kg leaf per tray每篩約 0.5–1 公斤
- Fresh leaf is spread thin on cloth in the sun (sun withering) for about 10–30 minutes, turned once or twice, until the leaf loses its shine and goes limp.鮮葉薄攤在布上曬太陽(日光萎凋)約 10–30 分鐘,中間翻動一兩次,直到葉面失去光澤、變軟。
- It then moves indoors onto round bamboo trays (水篩) stacked in a rack with gaps between shelves, so cool air moves over both faces of the leaf. This indoor withering runs for hours, often through the night.隨後移到室內,攤在圓形竹篩(水篩)上,層層放在留有間隙的萎凋架裡,讓涼風吹過葉片兩面。室內萎凋要持續數小時,常常通宵。
- Rainy days use a hot-air withering trough instead: a fan pushes warm air (about 30–35 °C) up through a mesh bed of leaf.雨天則改用熱風萎凋槽:風扇把約 30–35 °C 的暖風從網床下方吹過葉層。
As the leaf loses water, its cell membranes leak. Polyphenol oxidase (the browning enzyme) starts reaching the catechins it was kept apart from, and grassy green-leaf volatiles begin to fade.葉片失水後,細胞膜通透性增加,多酚氧化酶(使葉片變褐的酵素)開始接觸原本被隔開的兒茶素,青草味的青葉醇等揮發物也開始散去。
- Baozhong包種茶
Sun withering日光萎凋 · 10–30 min10–30 分鐘
Indoor withering & light tossing室內萎凋與輕浪菁 · 6–10 h, 3–5 tosses6–10 小時,浪菁 3–5 次 - Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Sun withering日光萎凋 · 10–30 min10–30 分鐘
Indoor withering & tossing室內萎凋與浪菁 · 8–12 h, 4–6 tosses, overnight8–12 小時,浪菁 4–6 次,通宵 - Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Sun withering日光萎凋 · 10–30 min10–30 分鐘
Heavy withering & tossing重萎凋與重浪菁 · long, many hard tosses時間長,多次重浪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看The shine fades: the leaf turns dull, not glossy.葉面失去光澤,由亮轉暗。
- Feel摸Soft and limp: hold it by the stem and it droops.葉質柔軟,捏住葉柄會下垂。
- Look看Edges turn brown and crisp: the air is too hot.葉緣焦褐變脆:風溫太高。
Hot-air withering trough熱風萎凋機
熱風萎凋機 · 萎凋槽 “the rainy-day sun”「雨天的太陽」
Stands in for the sun when there isn't any: warm air pushed up through a bed of leaf drives water out at a rate the maker sets.沒有太陽時的替代:暖風由下往上穿過葉層,按製茶師設定的速度帶走水分。
- Air風溫
- ~30–38 °C約 30–38 °C
- Time時間
- ~20–50 min約 20–50 分鐘
- Used when使用時機
- no usable sun: rain, cold, overcast沒有可用的陽光:雨天、寒冷、陰天
- Leaf is spread on a mesh bed over a long trough. A fan under the bed blows warm air up through the leaf.茶菁攤在長槽上方的網床上,網床下的風扇把暖風往上吹過葉層。
- The maker sets the air temperature and fan speed, and turns the leaf by hand now and then so it wilts evenly.製茶師調整風溫與風速,不時用手翻動茶菁,讓萎凋均勻。
- It's used mostly on rainy, cold or overcast days when sun withering isn't possible. Some farms also use blowers to speed up indoor withering.多用在下雨、寒冷或陰天、無法日光萎凋的時候;也有茶廠用送風機加快室內萎凋。
Water leaves a leaf faster when the air around it is warmer, drier and moving. The trough controls all three, so the maker can recreate what a good sunny afternoon would have done. Too hot, though, and the leaf edges cook instead of wilting.周圍空氣越暖、越乾、流動越快,葉片失水就越快。萎凋槽同時控制這三項,讓製茶師能重現好天氣午後的效果;但溫度太高,葉緣會被燙熟而不是萎凋。
- Baozhong包種茶 as an alternative作為替代
Sun withering日光萎凋 · 10–30 min10–30 分鐘
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍 as an alternative作為替代
Sun withering日光萎凋 · 10–30 min10–30 分鐘
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍 as an alternative作為替代
Sun withering日光萎凋 · 10–30 min10–30 分鐘
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看The shine fades: the leaf turns dull, not glossy.葉面失去光澤,由亮轉暗。
- Feel摸Soft and limp: hold it by the stem and it droops.葉質柔軟,捏住葉柄會下垂。
- Smell聞The sharp grassy smell starts to soften.強烈的青草味開始變淡。
Automated withering room自動化萎凋室
萎凋室 · 自動萎凋機(多層立架) “the weather box”「控溫萎凋室」
Indoor withering at factory scale: leaf rests on a tall rack of mesh screens in a closed room, and a lift brings each screen down to the floor in turn, so one person can tend a whole rack whatever the weather outside.工廠規模的室內萎凋:茶菁攤在密閉室內的多層網架上,由升降機一層層把網盤送到地面,一個人就能照顧整座萎凋架,不受外面天氣影響。
- Room室內條件
- ~20–25 °C, 60–75% RH約 20–25 °C,相對濕度 60–75%
- Screens網盤
- 16 tiers in the filmed machine影片中的機台有 16 層
- Moves搬運
- one screen at a time: lift, slide out, lower一次一盤:上升、拉出、下降
- Used by使用者
- larger factories大型茶廠
- Leaf is spread on wide mesh screens that slide into a tall rack, one screen per tier. The machine filmed at one Taiwanese factory has sixteen tiers, with gaps between them so air reaches the leaf.茶菁攤在寬大的網盤上,一層一盤插進高高的立架。台灣一間茶廠拍到的機台有十六層,層與層之間留有空隙讓空氣流通。
- In front of the rack is a lift: a frame that rides up and down four posts. It rises to one tier, the screen slides out onto it on rollers (the horizontal transfer, 水平傳動), and the frame lowers it to a bed of floorboards.立架前方是升降機:一個沿著四根立柱上下移動的框架。它升到某一層,網盤靠滾輪水平拉出到框架上(水平傳動),再降到地上的木地板。
- At floor level the leaf can be worked by hand, as it would be on cloth and racks. Then the lift raises the screen, pushes it home and moves on to the next tier, bottom to top.降到地面後,可以像在萎凋布或竹篩上一樣用手處理茶菁。接著升降機把網盤升回原層、推回架內,再換下一層,由下往上。
- The room is kept closed so its air can be held steady, often with air-con. Smaller farms do the same work by hand with racks and bamboo trays; machines like this are for larger factories.萎凋室保持密閉,以便穩定室內空氣條件,常會搭配冷氣。小茶農用萎凋架和竹篩人工完成同樣的工作;這類機器多見於較大的茶廠。
Water leaves the leaf faster when the air is warm, dry and moving, and slower when it is cool and humid. Holding all three steady sets the rate, which matters as much as how much water is lost: the leaf needs time for its chemistry to change.空氣越暖、越乾、流動越快,葉片失水越快;涼爽潮濕則變慢。把這三項穩住就等於設定了失水速度。速度和失水量一樣重要:葉片需要時間讓化學變化發生。
- Baozhong包種茶 as an alternative作為替代
Indoor withering & light tossing室內萎凋與輕浪菁 · 6–10 h, 3–5 tosses6–10 小時,浪菁 3–5 次
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍 as an alternative作為替代
Indoor withering & tossing室內萎凋與浪菁 · 8–12 h, 4–6 tosses, overnight8–12 小時,浪菁 4–6 次,通宵
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍 as an alternative作為替代
Heavy withering & tossing重萎凋與重浪菁 · long, many hard tosses時間長,多次重浪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看A red rim creeps in from the leaf edge (綠葉紅鑲邊).葉緣泛紅,形成「綠葉紅鑲邊」。
- Look看Darker bruises where leaves rubbed against each other.葉片互相摩擦處出現深色碰傷。
- Smell聞The grassy smell turns floral and fruity.青味轉為花香、果香。
Tossing drum浪菁機
浪菁機 · 攪拌機 “the bamboo barrel”「竹籠」
Bruise the leaf edges gently and evenly, so oxidation starts at the rims while the centre stays green.輕柔而均勻地碰傷葉緣,讓發酵從葉緣開始,葉心保持綠色。
- Drum speed轉速
- ~15–25 rpm每分鐘約 15–25 轉
- Rounds浪菁次數
- 3–6, each longer than the last3–6 次,逐次加長
- Rest between rounds間隔靜置
- 60–120 min on trays攤篩靜置 60–120 分鐘
- A long cylinder of woven bamboo (or perforated mesh) lies on rollers and turns slowly, about 15–25 rpm. Leaf goes in through a door in the side.一個用竹篾編成(或用網孔板做成)的長圓筒架在滾輪上,以每分鐘約 15–25 轉慢慢轉動。茶菁從側面的門投入。
- The leaves ride up the wall, then tumble back down, rubbing against each other and the bamboo. That friction bruises the leaf edges.葉片隨筒壁被帶上去,再翻落下來,彼此摩擦、也與竹壁摩擦,這種摩擦會碰傷葉緣。
- Each toss lasts a few minutes, then the leaf rests on trays for 1–2 hours. The maker repeats this 3–6 times, tossing longer each round, and reads the leaf by smell and by the red rim spreading along its edges.每次浪菁幾分鐘,然後攤回竹篩靜置 1–2 小時。製茶師重複 3–6 次,每次時間加長,憑香氣和葉緣逐漸擴大的紅邊來判斷。
Bruised cells mix polyphenol oxidase with catechins. Their products, theaflavins and thearubigins, turn the leaf edge red-brown and build floral and fruity aroma. Water also moves up from the stem into the leaf (走水) between rounds.碰傷的細胞讓多酚氧化酶與兒茶素混合,生成茶黃素與茶紅素,使葉緣變紅褐,並形成花果香。兩次浪菁之間,梗裡的水分也會向葉片移動(走水)。
- Baozhong包種茶
Indoor withering & light tossing室內萎凋與輕浪菁 · 6–10 h, 3–5 tosses6–10 小時,浪菁 3–5 次
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Indoor withering & tossing室內萎凋與浪菁 · 8–12 h, 4–6 tosses, overnight8–12 小時,浪菁 4–6 次,通宵
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Heavy withering & tossing重萎凋與重浪菁 · long, many hard tosses時間長,多次重浪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Colour shifts from bright green to a duller yellow-green.葉色由鮮綠轉為暗黃綠。
- Feel摸Soft and sticky: squeeze a handful and it stays in a lump.柔軟帶黏性,握緊成團不散。
- Smell聞Grassy smell gone; a sweet, cooked smell instead.青味消失,轉為甜熟香。
- Look看Black-brown burn spots: the drum is too hot.出現焦黑斑點:炒菁溫度太高。
Kill-green drum炒菁機
炒菁機 · 殺菁 “the fire drum”「炒鍋」
Heat the leaf fast enough to denature its enzymes, which fixes the oxidation level the maker chose.以足夠快的速度加熱葉片,使酵素失去活性,把製茶師選定的發酵程度固定下來。
- Drum wall筒壁溫度
- ~250–300 °C約 250–300 °C
- Time per batch每批時間
- 5–10 min5–10 分鐘
- Water after殺菁後含水
- ~55–60%約 55–60%
- A steel drum about 80 cm across turns over a row of gas burners. The drum wall runs at roughly 250–300 °C.直徑約 80 公分的鋼製滾筒在一排瓦斯爐上方轉動,筒壁溫度約 250–300 °C。
- Leaf goes in through the mouth and is lifted and dropped against the hot wall for about 5–10 minutes. Steam pours out of the mouth, and the grassy smell gives way to a sweet, cooked-fruit one.茶菁從筒口投入,被反覆帶起、落在熱壁上約 5–10 分鐘。筒口冒出大量水蒸氣,菁味轉為甜熟的果香。
- To empty it, the motor reverses. Fins inside the drum act like a screw and walk the leaf out of the mouth onto a bamboo sieve.出茶時馬達反轉,筒內的導葉像螺旋一樣把葉片送出筒口,落到竹篩上。
- The same kind of drum, run much cooler, is used later as a tumble heater. It warms ball-rolling leaf to about 60–65 °C between rounds so the leaf bends without cracking.同類滾筒以低得多的溫度運轉,後來也當作「炒熱」用:在團揉各輪之間把茶葉加熱到約 60–65 °C,使葉片柔軟、彎折不易斷。
Polyphenol oxidase loses its shape and stops working once the leaf passes about 70–80 °C. Oxidation stops there, so the colour and aroma built during tossing are locked in. The heat also drives off the low-boiling grassy compounds (hexenal, hexenol).葉溫超過約 70–80 °C 後,多酚氧化酶的結構被破壞而失去活性,發酵就此停止,浪菁時形成的顏色與香氣被固定下來。高溫同時趕走低沸點的菁味(己烯醛、己烯醇)。
- Baozhong包種茶
Kill-green殺菁 · 5–8 min at 250–270 °C250–270 °C,5–8 分鐘
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Kill-green殺菁 · 6–10 min at 260–300 °C260–300 °C,6–10 分鐘
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · 20–30+ rounds, 8+ h20–30 輪以上,8 小時以上 - Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Kill-green殺菁 · ~6–10 min約 6–10 分鐘
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · many rounds多輪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看The leaf curls along its midrib into a strip.葉片沿主脈捲成條狀。
- Feel摸Juice beads on the surface; it feels sticky.茶汁滲出葉面,摸起來黏手。
- Look看Fine tears and dark wet lines where cells broke.細胞破裂處出現細裂與深色濕痕。
Mochizuki rolling machine望月型揉捻機
望月型揉捻機 “the rolling bowl”「揉椀」
The oolong rolling machine: a bowl-shaped presser rubs the warm leaf round a ribbed table, twisting it and breaking its cells.烏龍茶用的揉捻機:碗狀壓蓋把溫熱的葉片壓在帶稜的揉盤上轉動揉捲,使細胞破裂。
- Time時間
- 5–10 min, light–heavy–light5–10 分鐘,輕-重-輕
- Presser壓蓋
- bowl-shaped (揉椀)碗狀(揉椀)
- Table ribs揉盤稜骨
- copper, half-moon, radial銅製半月形,放射排列
- Kill-greened leaf goes in while it's still warm. Above the table, a heavy bowl-shaped presser (the 揉椀) holds the leaf down.殺菁後的茶葉趁熱放入,揉盤上方有一個沉重的碗狀壓蓋(揉椀)把葉子壓住。
- The table carries copper ribs, half-moon shaped, fanning out from the centre. As the machine turns, the leaf mass rolls over itself against the ribs.揉盤上有銅製的半月形稜骨,由中心向外放射排列。機器轉動時,葉團就貼著稜骨不斷翻滾。
- A wheel on top sets how hard the bowl presses. Makers usually start light, press harder in the middle, then ease off.上方的轉輪控制壓蓋的力道,通常先輕、中段加重、最後放輕。
- It was invented in 1894 by Mochizuki Hatsutarō (望月發太郎) of Shizuoka, Japan, and reached Taiwan in the 1910s. Early machines were hand-cranked; later ones were driven by belt and motor.1894 年由日本靜岡縣的望月發太郎發明,1910 年代引進台灣。早期以手搖轉動,後來改用皮帶與馬達傳動。
It does the same job as any roller: twist the leaf and rupture its cells so the juice coats the surface. The domed bowl presses less hard than a flat lid, which suits oolong and Baozhong leaf that has to keep its shape rather than be broken up.作用與其他揉捻機相同:揉捲葉片、使細胞破裂、茶汁附著在葉表。碗狀壓蓋的壓力比平面壓蓋輕,適合需要保持外形、不宜揉碎的烏龍與包種茶。
- Baozhong包種茶
Rolling揉捻 · 6–7 min, de-clump, 3–4 min6–7 分鐘,解塊後再 3–4 分鐘
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Rolling揉捻 · ~6–8 min約 6–8 分鐘
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Rolling揉捻 · ~6–8 min約 6–8 分鐘
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看The leaf curls along its midrib into a strip.葉片沿主脈捲成條狀。
- Feel摸Juice beads on the surface; it feels sticky.茶汁滲出葉面,摸起來黏手。
- Look看Fine tears and dark wet lines where cells broke.細胞破裂處出現細裂與深色濕痕。
Flat-top rolling machine平面揉捻機
平面揉捻機 · 傑克遜式 “the black-tea roller”「紅茶揉捻機」
The heavier-pressing roller, mostly used for black tea: a flat lid presses warm leaf round a ribbed table to twist it and break its cells.壓力較重的揉捻機,多用於紅茶:平面壓蓋把葉片壓在帶稜的揉盤上揉捲,使細胞破裂。
- Time時間
- 5–10 min, light-heavy-light5–10 分鐘,輕-重-輕
- Barrel揉桶
- ~40–55 cm across直徑約 40–55 公分
- Motion運動
- crank orbit ~40–50 per min曲柄迴轉每分鐘約 40–50 次
- Freshly kill-greened leaf is loaded hot into a bottomless cylinder (the barrel) that sits on a round table with raised ribs.剛殺菁的熱葉裝進一個無底圓桶(揉桶),桶下是帶有凸稜的圓形揉盤。
- A crank swings the barrel in a circle over the table. A screw-down lid presses on the leaf, so the leaf mass rolls over itself against the ribs.曲柄帶動揉桶在揉盤上做圓周運動,上方可旋緊的壓蓋向下加壓,使葉團在稜骨上不斷翻滾。
- A rolling takes about 5–10 minutes: start light, press harder in the middle, ease off at the end. Coarse leaf may get a second rolling after de-clumping.一次揉捻約 5–10 分鐘,先輕、中段加重、最後放輕。粗老葉解塊後可再揉一次。
- This flat-lid type descends from the Jackson roller that Japanese-era factories brought in for black tea. For oolong and Baozhong, most farms use the bowl-shaped Mochizuki roller instead.這種平面壓蓋的機型源自日治時期工廠為製紅茶引進的傑克遜式揉捻機。製烏龍與包種茶時,多數茶廠改用碗狀壓蓋的望月型揉捻機。
Breaking cell walls lets juice (catechins, amino acids, sugars) reach the leaf surface, where it dissolves quickly in the cup. Black tea is rolled hard here, before it oxidises, so the enzyme can reach as much of the leaf as possible.細胞壁破裂後,茶汁(兒茶素、胺基酸、醣類)附著到葉表,沖泡時容易溶出。紅茶在發酵前就在這裡重揉,讓酵素盡量接觸整片葉子。
None of the three teas on this site use it.本站介紹的三種茶都不用它。
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Clumps open back into separate strips.茶團重新散成一條條。
- Feel摸Steam rises and the leaf cools in your hand.冒出熱氣,葉溫在手中下降。
De-clumping machine解塊機
解塊機 “the shaker”「打散機」
Break up the lump that rolling or pressing leaves behind, and let it cool and breathe.把揉捻或擠壓後結成的茶團打散,並讓它散熱透氣。
- Shaft轉軸
- pegged, a few hundred rpm齒釘式,每分鐘數百轉
- Time時間
- seconds per batch每批幾秒鐘
- Used使用
- after rolling, every ball-rolling pass, after pressing揉捻後、每輪團揉後、擠壓後
- Leaf drops from a hopper onto a spinning shaft fitted with pegs or paddles inside a short drum.茶葉從進料斗落進一個短筒,筒內有一根裝著齒釘或槳葉的旋轉軸。
- The pegs pull the lump apart and throw the loose leaf out of a chute onto a tray. It takes seconds per batch.齒釘把茶團扯開,再把鬆散的葉片從出料口拋到盤裡,每批只需幾秒鐘。
- In ball rolling it runs after every cloth-ball pass, so the leaf is opened, cooled and evened out 20 or more times.團揉時,每一次布球揉完都要解塊一次,所以茶葉要被打散、散熱、勻整二十多次。
Loosening stops the inside of the lump from overheating and stewing, and evens out moisture before the next heat or press.打散可防止茶團內部悶熱,並在下一次加熱或擠壓前讓含水更均勻。
- Baozhong包種茶
De-clumping解塊 · seconds數秒
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · 20–30+ rounds, 8+ h20–30 輪以上,8 小時以上
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · many rounds多輪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Colour deepens to a dark, matte green.葉色加深,轉為墨綠、霧面。
- Feel摸Dry and brittle: it snaps instead of bending.乾燥易碎:一折就斷,不再彎曲。
Tiered hot-air dryer甲種乾燥機
甲種乾燥機 “the oven tower”「乾燥塔」
Bring the leaf down to under 5% water so it keeps, and set its shape.把茶葉含水降到 5% 以下,便於保存並固定外形。
- Inlet air入口熱風
- ~90–110 °C約 90–110 °C
- Pass time每趟時間
- ~25–40 min約 25–40 分鐘
- Finish終點
- < 5% water含水 5% 以下
- A tall cabinet holds several layers of moving chain-plate mesh. Leaf spread on the top layer travels to the end and tips onto the layer below, zig-zagging down.高大的箱體內有多層移動的鏈板網。茶葉鋪在最上層,走到盡頭翻落到下一層,如此之字形往下走。
- A furnace and fan blow hot air (about 90–110 °C at the inlet) up through the layers, counter to the leaf's path.火爐和風扇把熱風(入口約 90–110 °C)由下往上吹過各層,方向與茶葉行進相反。
- Strip tea is dried once or twice. Ball oolong gets an early part-dry (初乾) before ball rolling, a final dry after, and is sometimes warmed in the dryer between rolling rounds.條形茶烘一到兩次。球形烏龍在團揉前先「初乾」,團揉後再「足乾」,各輪之間有時也用它來加溫。
Below about 5% water the leaf's chemistry slows almost to a stop and microbes can't grow. Gentle heat also starts the first browning (Maillard) reactions that give a cooked, sweet note.含水低於約 5% 時,葉中的化學反應幾乎停止,微生物也無法生長。溫和的熱也開始了最初的梅納反應,帶出熟甜香。
- Baozhong包種茶
Drying乾燥 · ~100–110 °C, 25–30 min, twice約 100–110 °C,25–30 分鐘,兩次
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Part-drying初乾 · to ~30–40% water到含水約 30–40%
Final drying足乾 · ~95–110 °C, to < 5%約 95–110 °C,到 5% 以下 - Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Drying乾燥 · to < 5%到 5% 以下
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Strips start to fold back on themselves.條索開始回折。
- Feel摸The cloth ball feels firm and warm.布球摸起來結實、溫熱。
Bundling machine (lotus)束包機(蓮花式)
束包機 · 蓮花束包機 “the lotus”「蓮花」
Wrap warm leaf in a cloth and twist the cloth shut into a tight ball, so the leaf inside is squeezed from every side.把溫熱的茶葉包進布巾,把布巾擰緊成球,讓裡面的茶葉從四面八方受壓。
- Load每包
- ~7–10 kg warm leaf約 7–10 公斤溫熱茶葉
- Ball布球
- ~30–40 cm across直徑約 30–40 公分
- History沿革
- first built in Mingjian, Nantou, 1983–841983–84 年南投名間研發成功
- About 7–10 kg of warm leaf is poured onto a square cloth (茶巾) that hangs in a ring of curved steel 'petals'.約 7–10 公斤溫熱的茶葉倒在一塊方形茶巾上,茶巾掛在一圈彎曲的鋼製「花瓣」中間。
- The petals close around the bundle like a lotus closing. The base spins, which twists the cloth's tail and pulls the ball tighter and rounder with every turn.花瓣像蓮花合攏一樣把布包圍住,底座旋轉,把布尾擰成一束,每轉一圈布球就更緊更圓。
- The operator holds the twisted tail on a bar and judges tightness by feel. The finished ball, about 30–40 cm across, goes straight to the cloth-ball roller.操作者用握桿握住擰緊的布尾,憑手感判斷鬆緊,成形後約 30–40 公分的布球直接送去布球揉捻機。
Warm leaf (about 60–65 °C) is plastic: its cell walls and pectin soften, so the leaf can be bent and folded without snapping. Squeezed from every side, each leaf curls around itself and its stem.溫熱(約 60–65 °C)的葉片具有可塑性,細胞壁和果膠變軟,可以彎折而不斷。四面受壓之下,每片葉子會繞著自己和茶梗捲曲起來。
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · 20–30+ rounds, 8+ h20–30 輪以上,8 小時以上
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · many rounds多輪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Folded strips tighten into half-balls.回折的條索收緊成半球形。
- Look看Tight pearls, stems tucked inside.緊結成顆粒,葉梗包在裡面。
Cloth-ball roller (half-moon)布球揉捻機(半月式)
半月圓式布球揉捻機 · 平揉機 “the half-moon”「半月機」
Roll the tied cloth ball under pressure so the leaf inside tightens into small balls.在壓力下滾動紮緊的布球,讓裡面的茶葉逐漸緊結成顆粒。
- Per pass每輪
- ~1–2 min under the plate壓盤下約 1–2 分鐘
- Passes循環次數
- ~20–30+ over 8+ h約 20–30 次以上,8 小時以上
- History沿革
- first built in Lugu, Nantou, 19731973 年南投鹿谷研發成功
- The cloth ball sits in a curved, half-moon-shaped trough. A heavy pressure plate comes down on top of it.布球放在一個半月形的弧形槽裡,上方有一塊沉重的壓盤壓下來。
- The plate rocks in an orbit while it presses, so the ball rolls round and round in the trough the way you'd roll dough between your palms. The flat-plate version (平揉機) does the same between two flat plates.壓盤一邊施壓一邊做迴旋擺動,布球就在槽中不停滾動,像在兩掌之間搓麵糰一樣。平板式的「平揉機」則是在兩塊平板之間做同樣的動作。
- After a minute or two the ball is untied, the leaf is de-clumped and warmed, and the whole cycle starts again. A batch of ball oolong goes round about 20–30 times or more over 8+ hours.揉一兩分鐘後拆開布球,茶葉解塊、加溫,再開始下一輪。一批球形烏龍往往要這樣循環 20–30 次以上,歷時 8 小時以上。
Each pass curls the leaf a little more and squeezes out a little more water. Done in many small steps, the ball tightens without crushing the cells all at once, so the tea keeps its aroma and lasts many infusions.每一輪都讓葉片多捲一點、多擠出一點水分。分很多小步完成,茶球緊結而不會一次壓碎細胞,所以能保留香氣、耐沖泡。
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · 20–30+ rounds, 8+ h20–30 輪以上,8 小時以上
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · many rounds多輪
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Leaf comes out as a dense, flattened block.壓出緊實扁平的茶塊。
- Look看More torn and flattened leaves: the press is too hard.破碎、壓扁的葉片增加:壓力太大。
Tofu press豆腐機(壓茶機)
壓茶機 · 擠壓機 · 豆腐機 “the tofu machine”「豆腐機」
A shortcut: squeeze cloth-wrapped leaf into a square block, like pressing tofu, to do much of the ball rolling in a few big presses.一種省工做法:把包在布裡的茶葉壓成方塊,像壓豆腐一樣,用幾次大力擠壓完成大部分團揉。
- Box壓箱
- square steel, cloth-lined方形鋼箱,內襯布巾
- Cycles循環
- ~5–6 press + de-clump擠壓加解塊約 5–6 次
- Saves省工
- over half the labour of cloth-ball rolling比布球團揉省一半以上人力
- Warm leaf in a cloth is dropped into a square steel box. An air or hydraulic ram drives a platen down and squeezes it into a dense block.包在布裡的溫熱茶葉放進方形鋼箱,氣壓或油壓缸推動壓板向下,把它擠壓成緊實的方塊。
- The block, which looks a lot like a slab of tofu, is broken up in the de-clumper, warmed, and pressed again, about 5–6 times. Bundling and flat rolling then finish the shape.壓出來的茶塊很像一塊豆腐,再送進解塊機打散、加溫、再壓,約 5–6 次,最後用束包和平揉整形。
- It came to Taiwan around 2010 to cope with the spring harvest rush. It is controversial: pressed tea can taste more bitter and astringent and hold up less well over infusions, and the Lugu farmers' association marks it down in competition.約 2010 年引進台灣,用來應付春茶集中採收。它頗具爭議:壓製的茶容易苦澀、不耐泡,鹿谷鄉農會比賽茶會因此扣分降等。
One hard squeeze crushes more cells at once than many gentle rolls. More juice is forced out, so the first infusions are strong and later ones fade, and long stems end up folded inside the balls.一次大力擠壓比多次輕揉壓碎更多細胞,茶汁大量外溢,所以頭幾泡濃、後面淡,而且長梗會被包在茶球裡面。
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍 as an alternative作為替代
Ball rolling loop團揉循環 · 20–30+ rounds, 8+ h20–30 輪以上,8 小時以上
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Colour moves from dark green towards brown.葉色由墨綠轉向褐色。
- Smell聞A toasty, honeyed, nutty smell.出現焙火香、蜜香與堅果香。
- Look看Deep amber-brown with a dry sheen.深琥珀褐色,表面帶乾亮光澤。
Roaster (charcoal basket & electric)焙籠與焙茶機
焙籠 · 焙茶機 “the fire basket”「焙籠」
Re-fire the finished tea for hours to days at low heat, to deepen sweetness, mellow the edges and help it keep.以低溫長時間(數小時到數天)復焙成茶,增加甜熟感、圓潤口感,也更耐存放。
- Temperature溫度
- ~80–130 °C約 80–130 °C
- Time時間
- 4–20+ h, sometimes several rounds4–20 小時以上,有時多次
- Heat熱源
- banked charcoal or electric覆灰炭火或電熱
- Traditional: a tall bamboo basket (焙籠) with a mesh tray inside stands over a pit of banked charcoal, covered in ash so it gives steady, smokeless heat.傳統方式:高高的竹編焙籠內放一層網盤,架在用灰覆蓋的炭火坑上,讓炭火穩定無煙地發熱。
- Most farms now use an electric roaster: a cabinet of drawer trays with a heater and a fan. The tea sits at about 80–130 °C and is turned by hand now and then.現在多數茶農使用電焙籠:有多層抽屜式茶盤、電熱與風扇的箱子,茶葉在約 80–130 °C 下烘焙,不時用手翻動。
- Dong Ding oolong and Hong oolong get medium to heavy roasts, often repeated with rests in between. High-mountain oolong is usually roasted lightly, if at all.凍頂烏龍和紅烏龍常做中焙到重焙,往往多次焙火、中間退火休息;高山烏龍則多半輕焙或不焙。
Slow heat drives Maillard reactions and caramelisation between sugars and amino acids. That makes pyrazines and furans (toasty, nutty, honey notes), mellows astringency and turns the liquor from gold to amber.低溫慢焙促使醣與胺基酸發生梅納反應和焦糖化,生成吡嗪、呋喃類(焙火香、堅果香、蜜香),降低澀感,茶湯由金黃轉為琥珀色。
- Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍
Roasting (optional)焙火(視茶而定) · Dong Ding: medium, 8–20 h凍頂:中焙,8–20 小時
- Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍
Roasting焙火 · medium–heavy, often repeated中到重焙,常多次
What to watch觀察重點
- Look看Whole leaf, broken pieces (茶角) and dust (茶末) separate by size.正茶、茶角與茶末依大小分開。
Sorting machine篩分機
篩分機 “the sieve”「篩子」
Optional finishing: shake the made tea over sieves to separate whole leaf from broken bits and dust, so a batch looks and brews evenly.選擇性的精製步驟:把成茶放上篩網振動,分出完整茶葉、碎角與茶末,讓同一批茶外觀與沖泡都一致。
- Input進料
- finished dry tea乾燥成茶
- Output出料
- whole leaf · broken · dust正茶 · 茶角 · 茶末
- Used by使用者
- refiners, larger factories精製廠、較大的茶廠
- Dry finished tea is fed onto stacked sieves with different mesh sizes that shake or turn.乾燥的成茶送上層疊、網目大小不同的篩網,篩網振動或轉動。
- Whole leaf stays on top. Broken pieces (茶角) and dust (茶末) fall through and are sold or used separately.完整的茶葉留在上層,碎角(茶角)與茶末掉到下層,另外出售或利用。
- Refiners and larger factories use it most. Small farms often pick through by hand instead.精製廠和較大的茶廠最常使用,小茶農多半以人工挑揀。
Nothing chemical happens here. It's about consistency: pieces of the same size brew at the same speed, so the cup comes out balanced.這一步不涉及化學變化,重點在一致性:大小相同的茶葉沖泡速度相同,茶湯才會均衡。
None of the three teas on this site use it.本站介紹的三種茶都不用它。
Baozhong包種茶 文山包種
The lightest Taiwanese oolong and the closest to green tea. It is never ball-rolled: the strip shape left by the rolling machine is the finished shape.台灣烏龍中發酵最輕、最接近綠茶的一種,不做團揉,揉捻機揉出的條索就是成品外形。
- Shape外形
- long dark-green twisted strips墨綠色條索
- Oxidation發酵度
- light · ~8–15%輕 · 約 8–15%
- Where產區
- Pinglin & Wenshan, New Taipei新北坪林、文山
- In the cup茶湯風味
- bright gold-green, floral (orchid, lily), clean and sweet蜜綠明亮,花香(蘭花、百合),清甜
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Plucking採摘morning–noon上午到中午
One bud and two or three leaves, picked by hand.手採一心二三葉。
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Sun withering日光萎凋10–30 min10–30 分鐘
Spread thin on cloth in the afternoon sun until the shine goes.薄攤在布上曬午後的陽光,直到葉面失去光澤。
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Indoor withering & light tossing室內萎凋與輕浪菁6–10 h, 3–5 tosses6–10 小時,浪菁 3–5 次
Gentle tosses with long rests. The first two are kept very light so water isn't trapped in the leaf.輕浪、長時間靜置;前兩次要特別輕,以免「積水」。
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Kill-green殺菁5–8 min at 250–270 °C250–270 °C,5–8 分鐘
Oxidation is fixed here, at its lightest level.在此固定較輕的發酵度。
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Rolling揉捻6–7 min, de-clump, 3–4 min6–7 分鐘,解塊後再 3–4 分鐘
Can be rolled fairly hard, since Baozhong isn't judged on buds or down. This sets the long twisted strip.包種茶不重視芽尖白毫,可揉稍重,形成緊結的條索。
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De-clumping解塊seconds數秒
Opens the rolled lump so it dries evenly.打散揉後的茶團,使其均勻乾燥。
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Drying乾燥~100–110 °C, 25–30 min, twice約 100–110 °C,25–30 分鐘,兩次
A first dry, a rest to let the moisture even out, then a full dry to under 5%.先初乾、回潤,再足乾到 5% 以下。
Ball-rolled oolong球形烏龍 高山烏龍 · 凍頂烏龍
Taiwan's signature style. After rolling, the leaf goes through many rounds of heat, cloth-wrap, roll and de-clump until each leaf curls into a pearl. That loop is where most of the machines live.台灣最具代表性的做法。揉捻後要反覆「加熱—包布—揉—解塊」,直到每片葉子捲成顆粒,大部分機器都用在這個循環裡。
- Shape外形
- tight semi-ball to ball “pearls”緊結的半球形到球形
- Oxidation發酵度
- medium · ~15–30%中 · 約 15–30%
- Where產區
- Lugu (Dong Ding), Alishan, Lishan, Shanlinxi鹿谷(凍頂)、阿里山、梨山、杉林溪
- In the cup茶湯風味
- gold liquor, creamy floral (high mountain) or roasted, nutty-sweet (Dong Ding)金黃湯色,高山茶花香奶香,凍頂茶焙火香甜
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Plucking採摘morning–noon上午到中午
A bud with two or three fairly mature leaves (開面), picked by hand on high-mountain farms.一心二三葉的開面葉,高山茶園多為手採。
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Sun withering日光萎凋10–30 min10–30 分鐘
Spread thin on cloth in the afternoon sun until the shine goes.薄攤在布上曬午後的陽光,直到葉面失去光澤。
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Indoor withering & tossing室內萎凋與浪菁8–12 h, 4–6 tosses, overnight8–12 小時,浪菁 4–6 次,通宵
More and longer tosses than Baozhong, so a wider red rim spreads along the leaf edges.比包種茶浪得更多更久,葉緣紅邊更明顯。
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Kill-green殺菁6–10 min at 260–300 °C260–300 °C,6–10 分鐘
Usually in the small hours, when the aroma is judged ready.多在凌晨香氣到位時進行。
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Part-drying初乾to ~30–40% water到含水約 30–40%
Partly dried so the leaf can be shaped without turning to mush.先烘到半乾,揉團時才不會糊爛。
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Ball rolling loop團揉循環20–30+ rounds, 8+ h20–30 輪以上,8 小時以上
Warm to ~60–65 °C → wrap and twist in cloth (bundler) → roll under the half-moon plate → de-clump → repeat. Part-dries are slipped in between rounds. A shortcut path uses the press (tofu machine) for the early rounds.加溫到約 60–65 °C → 包布束緊(束包機)→ 半月壓盤下揉 → 解塊 → 重複,中途穿插烘乾。省工做法是前幾輪改用壓茶機(豆腐機)。
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Final drying足乾~95–110 °C, to < 5%約 95–110 °C,到 5% 以下
Sets the balls and makes the 毛茶 (unsorted crude tea).定型,成為毛茶。
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Roasting (optional)焙火(視茶而定)Dong Ding: medium, 8–20 h凍頂:中焙,8–20 小時
High-mountain tea is often sold lightly roasted or unroasted. Traditional Dong Ding is roasted to a toasty, honeyed amber.高山茶多輕焙或不焙;傳統凍頂焙至琥珀色,帶焙火蜜香。
Hong (red) oolong紅烏龍 紅烏龍 · 台東鹿野
Developed by the Taitung branch of Taiwan's Tea Research and Extension Station to make good use of summer and autumn leaf. It is ball-rolled like an oolong but oxidised almost like a black tea, then roasted.由茶改場台東分場為善用夏秋茶菁而開發,外形像球形烏龍,發酵幾乎接近紅茶,最後再焙火。
- Shape外形
- dark red-brown balls深紅褐色球形
- Oxidation發酵度
- heavy · the most oxidised Taiwanese oolong (often cited ~60–80%)重 · 台灣烏龍中發酵最重(常見說法約 60–80%)
- Where產區
- Luye, Taitung (since 2008)台東鹿野(2008 年起)
- In the cup茶湯風味
- orange-red liquor, ripe fruit, honey, a black-tea-like body with an oolong finish橙紅湯色,熟果蜜香,似紅茶的厚度、烏龍的尾韻
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Plucking採摘morning–noon上午到中午
Summer and autumn leaf, which is too bitter for light oolong but full of polyphenols for oxidation to work on.夏秋茶菁:做清香烏龍嫌苦澀,但多酚含量高,正適合重發酵。
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Sun withering日光萎凋10–30 min10–30 分鐘
Spread thin on cloth in the afternoon sun until the shine goes.薄攤在布上曬午後的陽光,直到葉面失去光澤。
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Heavy withering & tossing重萎凋與重浪菁long, many hard tosses時間長,多次重浪
Withered and tossed much harder and longer, until most of the leaf, not just the rim, has turned red-brown.萎凋、浪菁都更重更久,直到大半葉片(不只葉緣)轉為紅褐。
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Kill-green殺菁~6–10 min約 6–10 分鐘
Fixes the leaf at a heavy oxidation level.在重發酵程度下固定。
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Ball rolling loop團揉循環many rounds多輪
The same heat → bundle → roll → de-clump loop as other ball oolongs, giving dark, tight balls.與其他球形烏龍相同的「加溫—束包—揉—解塊」循環,形成烏潤緊結的茶球。
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Roasting焙火medium–heavy, often repeated中到重焙,常多次
Roasting is central to Hong oolong. It rounds the black-tea edge into honey and ripe fruit.焙火是紅烏龍的關鍵,把紅茶般的銳利轉為蜜香熟果香。
Which tea uses which machine哪種茶用哪台機器
Every machine against every tea. A filled dot is the main route; a dashed dot is an alternative.每台機器對照每種茶。實心點是主要做法,虛線點是替代做法。